Hook, Line—and Supper

There’s nothing like fresh salmon hot off the grill, and, soon, we should be seeing salmon from the Monterey Bay in our markets.

To learn more about local salmon, I contacted avid fisherman Mike Baxter, who writes his “Let’s Go Fishin’” column for the Scotts Valley Press-Banner and hosts a fishing show on KSCO (1080) Thursdays from 7:06-8 p.m. through September.

Baxter explained that the salmon being caught off our coast is the Chinook, or king, salmon.

“There are a few silver or coho salmon caught,” Baxter said. “But only Chinook may be retained.”

The limit for sport-caught salmon is two per person, and the legal minimum size is 24 inches. The limit for commercial salmon is 27 inches, which would weigh around 10 pounds. In a recent column, Baxter reported that one fisherman hauled in a 30-pounder!

The sport-fishing season will last through the summer, although no closing date has been determined. If you’re interested in catching a fish yourself but don’t have a boat, check out the charter boats and other fishing information at Fishing Santa Cruz.

But what about those of us who don’t fish? When can we start pulling out our salmon recipes, collecting lemons and dill and other ingredients, and heating up the grill? When can we savor our first bite of delectable home-cooked, local wild-caught salmon?

The commercial season officially opens May 1. For more information on all sport and commercial salmon fishing, visit the California Department of Fish and Game website.

Baxter suggested buying salmon at markets that stock local troll-caught salmon, such as .

Stagnaro Brothers will sell troll-caught Monterey Bay salmon at its retail outlet on the Santa Cruz Wharf.

Troll-caught salmon are caught individually with a hook and line. This is considered the most sustainable method of fishing, because of targeting and little or no by-catch.

Baxter also said some fishermen sell salmon from the docks.

“My favorite is Frank Ribeiro aboard the Gayle R in the Santa Cruz Yacht Harbor,” Baxter said. “He has a longtime following of local clients, quality fish—and he is a real character.”

Baxter has some great cooking methods and tasty recipes for salmon.

“I enjoy it on the grill,” he said. “A teriyaki marinade with hickory chips on the grill for a smoky flavor. I make a glaze out of butter, soy sauce, garlic, lemon, black pepper and honey to pour on after it is served. I enjoy high heat and heavy char marks from the grill, with a fresh lemon slice as garnish.”

Boy, my mouth is watering. How about yours?

Baxter uses as much of the fish as possible—including the skin.

“I enjoy many parts of the salmon and eat most of it,” he said. “The collars are delicious.”

I have to agree with that. I’ve had hamachi collar in Japanese restaurants, and it’s one of the most succulent parts of the fish.

Baxter’s method for cooking the skin sounds scrumptious.

He scales the fish before grilling. After the salmon is barbecued and before serving, he removes the skin.

“I then lightly add olive oil, salt, and squeeze lemon on the skin,” he explained. “I continue to grill both sides of the salmon skin until it is very crispy. I serve it in strips on the fish or on top of the side salad. These salmon skin "cracklings" are wonderful, and [eating them] utilizes more of this cherished fish!"

I’m counting down the days to the opening of commercial salmon season when I can try these recipes myself!