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Community Corner

Clamoring for Clams at the Boardwalk

Would you like some clams with that cream?

Throngs of chowder enthusiasts and scantily clad tourists from all over the Central Coast flocked to the Boardwalk on Saturday, to soak up the warm sunny weather and consume hundreds of gallons of clam chowder. It was the 31st Annual Chowder Cook Off—a fundraiser for the Santa Cruz Parks and Recreation—and over 73 teams competed this year, their booths wedged among the rides and Fried Twinkies kiosks along the crowded seaside stretch.

Both Boston (white) and Manhattan (tomato-based) chowders were served to tasters who bought a tasting kit for $9. For a soup that appears to be universal in theory, no two chowders tasted even remotely the same.

Some traditionalists swore by keeping it simple and sticking to the basics.

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"It's traditional, we use the standard ingredients, and treat them well," said one white chowder-purist, Joe Duggan of Scotts Valley.

Others swore by bacon or pancetta, herbs or even went out on a limb by throwing in carrots, a strange sight for anyone who grew up in New England. 

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Jill Goodwin of Hollister Jerry's restaurant in Monterey, says it's the stick-to-your-ribs ingredients that make her chowder so good.

"Real butter, the real stuff. Cream, and bacon—you can't skimp," Goodwin, who was competing for the fourth year in a row. 

Past First Place winner, Peter Waligora tended to disagree, saying:"No bacon, it's clam chowder!" as he ladled a clam and rosemary-laced cream into my paper cup. "20 gallons, two ounces at a time," he said of his dwindling vat. 

The Manhattan chowders strayed even further from tradition.

UCSC's team "the Chowder Slugs" added chipotle to their Manhattan chowder, and two kinds of clams—manilla and little neck. 

Others had a more organic chowder theology: "It started with a little bit of love," said Liz Reed, of the team "Franken Chowder," whose five members decked themselves out in zany clam head masks with googley eyes, and ended up winning 1st place for Most Original Team. Franken Chowder also swore by fresh, quality ingredients from Coke Farms. 

By 3:30 the ladles were clanking against the bottoms of the metal pots, and tasters rushed to enter their People's Choice votes.

The first place prize for best Professionally-made chowders went to two local establishments: Ideal Bar and Grill won Best Boston Clam Chowder, and Severino's Bar and Grill won Best Manhattan.

Last year's Chowder Cook Off raised around $55,000, and officials estimate that this year will be even higher, judging from the overwhelming turnout. The only thing that was missing were the oyster crackers. 

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